Banja Luka
This beautiful town is surrounded by rolling green hills. It is split in two by Vrbas, a very strong river that, just at short distance from Banja Luka, suddenly loses its waterfalls and cascades, and flows gently into town.
Banja Luka is the second largest city in Bosnia and Herzegovina and the largest city in the northwest. The town got connected to the world when the Roman trade route from Salona to Servitium passed through it. To protect this route (and to enjoy the healing water springs they had discovered in the area) the Romans built a fortress here, which walls encompassed an entire miniature town. When the Roman Empire collapsed, the Slavs took over. Once the Ottomans finally controlled the town, they gave it a distinct oriental flavor.
The Ottoman governor in Bosnia had his headquarters here for a while, building bridges and mills, and in its Ottoman glory days there were some 40 mosques in the town. In the course of the Ottoman centuries, Banja Luka was destroyed repeatedly by Ottoman-Austrian warfare (as well as earthquakes and plagues) until eventually the Austrian-Hungarian Empire anexed Banja Luka peacefully in the 19th century. They rapidly modernized the town, building factories and connecting it to Vienna and other capital cities. The town expanded tremendously in the 20th century.
Bihac
The area was settled from at least Illyrian and Roman times, but the town itself was first mentioned in 1260, in a document of King Bel IV.
It were these far northwest frontier lands that drew the line between the Ottomans and the Austro-Hungarians. Bihac is a charming little town centered on the banks of Una River. The town is teeming with café’s that inevitably gravitate around the beautiful Una. It is more than worth a visit to Bihac or any of the towns that live off these emerald waters.
It is a great place for a stop over if you're on your way down to the Croatian coast or have visited the Plitvice National Park just across the border. Or better yet, to really experience the magic of this body of water – go stay for a few days, walk along the banks, raft down its amazing falls, or simply sit and listen to the wise tales water always tells.
Bosanska Krupa
Bosanska Krupa, named after a 13th century girl named Krupana, is a small town on the banks of Una and Krusnica rivers. The area is well known for its characteristic watermills and the fishing houses built on stilts.
The town center was built around the ruins of a town called Psata at the end of the 19th century. The most attractive parts of town are the rivers and the source of Krusnica. It's a heaven for anglers and walkers. In Krupa, fishing is second only to rafting and canoeing. Large carp and trout can be found in both rivers, but Krusnica River seems to be the place for bigger catches.
Krusnica Spring is home to a diverse world of fish with carp, trout, greyling, pike and chub. The local fishing association can guide visiting anglers to the hot spots and arrange for a license.
There was once an artist colony here and many works are displayed in the town’s Gallery. Most of the paintings capture the old-style bridges and the unique little islands with natural beaches in the middle of the river. These islands are ideal for camping and bonfires. Even on the hottest days the river makes the evenings cool and sometimes chilly. Of the rafting routes 22 km go through Krupa in Una Canyon to Ostrozac. Fishing competitions are also held in this part of the canyon.
Cazin
About 26 km from Bihac, in a quiet valley surrounded by a picturesque hilly landscape, lies Cazin. Its old town, or carsija, is its heart and it has a lovely little brook cutting it through the middle.
Although small in size, Cazin has played a significant role in the country's history. Since the 14th century it has been a strategic point for the foreign powers that lusted after the land of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
The medieval remains of Ostrozac, Pecigrad, Radetina Tower, Stijena and Trzac dominate the town. The most beautiful and impressive is Ostrozac Castle. Built in a neo-gothic style, Ostrozac is one of the main attractions in Una Sana Canton.
Fojnica
It is thought the Illyrians had major settlements here and during the Roman conquest the town rapidly gained importance because of its rich gold deposits. Handicrafts and trade were well established even before the arrival of the Ottomans in the towns of Kozograd, Zvonigrad and Kastel, all located in today’s Fojnica and surroundings.
Kozograd, a fortress located on the slopes of Zec Mountain is presumed to have been in existence since at least the early 15th century, when Dubrovnik miners would hide here with their treasures from invading forces. It is also believed that this fortification was the last place Queen Katarina stayed at before she fled to Dubrovnik and further on to Rome, never to return to the conquered kingdom she left behind.
Zvonigrad is more than likely a prehistoric settlement where ancient miners sought refuge. Kastel, in the near vicinity of the hunting lodge Zahor, was a temporary shelter for the Franciscan monks from Fojnica during the Ottoman invasion of Bosnia. These three towns are ruins now. Fojnica as a town was first mentioned in 1365, when miners had come from Germany and Dubrovnik to develop this ore-rich area. In the late 15th century, after the invasion of the Ottomans, Fojnica recorded 329 families. In the same period Mostar, a city now 20 times the size of Fojnica, recorded only 19 dwellings.
Gradacac
This is certainly one of the places to see when you visit the northeast of Bosnia. On the River Gradisnica, between the mountains of Majevica and Trebava, lies the beautiful town of Gradacac.
This town holds great historical significance for Bosnians. Husein Kapetan (Captain) Gradascevic was a ruling beg (bey) during Ottoman times. He was a warrior and leader, highly respected and feared throughout the region, who posed such a tangible threat to Ottoman authority that he could bargain for more autonomy, self-rule and land rights. There are several versions of history but the common one is that he and his army were able to defend the territories of the northeastern frontier when the Ottomans could not.
He was greatly feared by the Ottomans, and when the rebellious Zmaj od Bosne (Dragon of Bosnia), as he was called, decided to confront the Ottomans, he marched his army all the way to Kosovo in 1831. The Dragon's army defeated the Ottomans and further destabilised the empire's hold on Bosnia. This rebellious spirit proved contagious among the local pashas and ruling families, and sparked many more rebellions. Gradascevic was later betrayed and forced to flee across Sava to Austria. The numerous buildings bearing his name attest to his role in the history of the town.
Jajce
Jajce has had more than its fair share of battles. The town changed hands several times before the independent Bosnian state was finally conquered when Jajce fortress was the last one to fall to the Ottoman invaders in 1528.
It seemed fitting after so many civilizations had settled and fought over this place that in 1943. the AVNOJ (Anti-Fascist Council of the National Liberation of Yugoslavia) was signed and sealed here in one of the most historical moments of Bosnia's and Yugoslavia's history.
The second session of AVNOJ on November 29 ratified that Bosnia and Herzegovina, as an equal federal unit, would enter the Democratic Federal Yugoslavia. These resolutions outlined the future democratic and federal organization of the region. The outskirts of town are blessed with an abundance of water, which is probably what made it so attractive and practical as a settlement in earlier times.
Konjic
Konjic is attractive far more by its abundance of natural beauty that completely surrounds the town. The Neretva River running through the center and Prenj Mountain looming behind dominates Konjic.
The old town is quite nice to stroll through. The center of town is rather pleasant too, with stunning views in every direction. The main street is often closed to vehicle traffic and is filled with the young and old walking, hanging out in cafés or selling their wares along the riverside markets. People in Konjic are very easy going and friendly so feel free to ask someone for directions or to engage in some small talk. One of the not-to-be-missed attractions is certainly Kamena Cuprija (Stone Bridge) built in 1682. It was destroyed during World War II, but was rebuilt in 2009.
Maglaj
Many towns in this region have hilltop fortresses built by the Romans, Hungarians or Ottomans, but there is something special about the one in Maglaj.
Maglaj means 'fog' and the wide valley along this part of Bosna River has mystic fog frequently rolling in, especially in the early morning hours. Kursumlija Mosque in the old town near the fortress is a beautiful example of Ottoman architecture. It was built in 1560. by Kalavun Jusuf Pasa (Pasha).
The town is rich in apple and pear orchards, particularly along the river. If you get a chance, climb up to the tower - the view of the valley is magnificent. It's an easy-walking town and a nice day trip from Tuzla or Zenica.
Mostar
When Stari Most, or Old Bridge, collapsed from tank shelling in 1993. it was like the heart was ripped out of most Mostar natives.
Even mentioning the bridge for years after it fell to the bottom of Neretva River could invoke tears as it symbolized both the city and the country as a whole. Now, more than a decade later, the beautiful stone structure that had spanned Neretva River for over four centuries once again arches across its raging waters. The bridge is Mostar's core and its reconstruction means that life is slowly but surely returning to normal in what is most certainly the most beautiful city in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Neum
The Adriatic Sea from Split to Dubrovnik is gorgeous, very clean, and includes 22 km of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The closed bay at Neum is protected from the strong open sea winds by the Peljesac Peninsula, and wonderfully calm.
Neum is the only exit of Bosnia and Herzegovina to the coast. It was first mentioned in 533. (under the name Neunense), but was developed as a maritime retreat in 1965. The Old Town of Neum is 2 km inland.
Scuba-diving, parasailing, boating and jet skiing can all readily be arranged in any of the major hotels. It all costs a little less than what it costs in Croatia. During the season, it is wise to book in advance. There are over 7000 beds in hotels, B&Bs, guest houses and private accommodation.
Olovo
Olovo is a tiny town located 50 km northeast from Sarajevo, on the main road from Sarajevo to Tuzla. Conifer forests growing on the mountains reveal a beautiful natural site with abundant mountain springs and brooks and the beautiful valley of Krivaja River which stretches from Zavidovici. The river is a wonderful rafting spot.
Olovo was first mentioned in 1382. under the name Plumbum (lead in Latin). At the time, town had numerous lead mines. The town was named after the lead minerals found in the medieval period.
Spa Center „Aquaterm“ is located in the town's center at the confluence of Biostica and Stupcanica rivers. Four thermal springs with temperature of 360 C are ideal for treating rheumatic, neurological, skin and cardiovascular diseases.
Pocitelj
This unique settlement, listed as a UNESCO heritage site and recent reconstruction has returned the town to its original form. It was first mentioned in 1444. but some documents show that it was built in the late 14th century upon the order of the Bosnian King Tvrtko. Besides its stunning oriental architecture and Ottoman feel, Pocitelj hosts the longest operating art colony in southeast Europe.
Artists from around the world gather here to paint, among other things but importantly, the shiny red pomegranates and figs that grow in abundance on the hills of Pocitelj.
The Hadzi-Alija Mosque has been reconstructed as well as the Sisman-Ibrahimpasina Madrasa (School) and Gavran Kapetanovica Kuca (House), all of which are open to visitors. The most striking object in Pocitelj is Sahat-kula (Clock Tower), a silo-shaped fort that towers from the top of the hill above the town. It housed watchmen and military to guard.
Sarajevo
Sarajevo is a city in which even strangers can feel at home. Neither geographically expansive nor characterised by large buildings, the city retains a particular, arresting charm with its abundance of busy cafés and abiding tradition of hospitality.
The city's breathtaking backdrop of seemingly endless hills and towering mountains have in a sense always isolated the city, creating a timeless world, which despite its seclusion has always kept its doors open to the rest of the world. Although Sarajevo is a capital city typified by the hustle and bustle of everyday life, it also possesses a unique ambience that seeps into the soul.
This city epitomizes a partial centuries-old struggle against outside influences combined with the absorption of these influences into one of the most diverse cultures in Europe. Indeed, few places on earth feature an Orthodox and a Catholic church, a mosque and a synagogue within easy walking distance of each other. If there were any city in Europe that effortlessly straddles east and west, it is Sarajevo. Here the Byzantine and Ottoman empires of the east and the Roman, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian empires of the west left an indelible mark through culture, traditions and religions. A walk through Sarajevo is a walk through its past. From the oriental Ottoman quarters lined with sweet shops, cafés and handicraft workshops, to the administrative and cultural centre of Austro-Hungarian times, Sarajevo encompasses the very best of both worlds.
In Sarajevo, people have time for family and friends. It is often said that a man's wealth here is not measured in his material belongings but rather in his friendships.
Sanski Most - The Town on Nine Rivers
One of the first tourist villages in Bosnia and Herzegovina was built in the upper Sanica between Kljuc and Sanski Most. In the summer months, the area around this 'City of Flowers' springs to life.
Hundreds of people sit around in Banja (Spa) Ilidza, famous for its healing waters. It has a large picnic area, an outdoor swimming pool and a mud pool.
Also close to Sanski Most is the source of Dabar River that swells from an enormous cave, and Bliha River that creates a beautiful waterfall falling down from an altitude of 72 m. In town itself the Hamza-begova (bey’s) Mosque, dated 1557., is worth a visit. It was built on the place where Sultan Mehmed Fatih first prayed after conquering the town in 1463.
Srebrenica
Not long ago the memorial cemetery was opened in Srebrenica. The memorial center is a beautiful and touching place.
Life may be returning to normal in Srebrenica, but the women and children who survived will continue to live their lives without their brothers, fathers, husbands and friends.
Despite its tragic past, the beautiful dense forests that line the hillside or the plethora of bears and wolves that roam the wilderness to the southeast of town are certainly a site to see.
Go to Srebrenica. There are nice places to see in and around Srebrenica. The natural thermal springs, the stunning pine covered hills, and lovely villages that dot the countryside.
Tesanj
Many Bosnians didn't know much about this town until two rather significant events occurred. One of them was that Tesanj's Oaza mineral water won a gold medal at the Berkeley Springs Mineral Water Contest in the United States. The old town is dominated by the well-preserved fortress that overlooks the whole city. The fortress is a result of the many different civilizations that have made Bosnia and Herzegovina their home. The fort is open to visitors.
Travnik
The valley reappeared in 1244., in terms of primary historical records, when the Hungarian King Bel IV gave one of his notables a piece of land in Lasva. By that time, the area was a feudal estate of the Bosnian state.
Although remains from these centuries do not show the wealth the valley had known in Roman times, the era did have its share of castles and mansions. Travnik Fortress was the most impressive fortress at the time, and still stands out as the best preserved of them all. This era gave Travnik its name.
The Ottoman era renewed the glory of Travnik. It was the principal city and military center of the Ottoman Empire. It was from here that the Ottomans planed their invasions further towards the southwest. They brought mosques, schools, roads and water systems. They fortified the medieval fortress and built a mini-town within its high stone walls. For over 150 years, the vizier - the Ottoman Sultan's representative in Bosnia - had his headquarters in this town, attracting both consulates and trade. Travelers visiting Travnik in this era were impressed by the town and called it the European Istanbul and the most oriental town in Bosnia.
Tuzla
Situated on the southeast slopes of Majevica Mountain, the city of Tuzla occupies the central area of northeast Bosnia.
The town is 239 m above sea level, and it stretches across an area of approximately 15km2. The city's population is approximately 100,000 but the greater municipal area has over 170,000 inhabitants. Tuzla is the economic, scientific, cultural, educational, health and tourist center of northeast Bosnia.
Visoko
Despite only being a 20-minute drive from Sarajevo, Visoko falls politically under the Zenica-Doboj Canton in central Bosnia. The town is best known for its leather smiths, whose craft has been practiced for over 500 years.
High-quality, reasonably priced leather goods can be purchased in the old carsija. KTK Leather Company is the largest factory of its kind in the country. Their products can also be found in Sarajevo's carsija but you're likely to pay more than if you bought them here. The old part of Visoko is a mini version of Sarajevo's Bascarsija.
